photograph by Jennifer Zyman When I moved back to Atlanta from San Francisco in the mid-2000s, one matter I never understood was how eldritch our dimmed summarize fit was. No place seemed to stay good for very long, and there were a draw of flash-in-the-pans that never gained adequate of a bridgehead to dominate. I always fell back on Royal China in Chamblee. If you were a regular, you know royal China ’ s interior decoration had seen better days. The restaurant ’ s interior was kind of a begrimed, red pink and so careworn out, I started to avoid it, despite the still delicious dishes on the menu.
But then Royal China closed its Chamblee Dunwoody Road restaurant this by April and reopened 18 miles union in a early sport goods memory near the Costco off of Venture Drive in Duluth. Entering though the new doors, I may have let out some ooh and ahhs. It ’ s not only fancier than the previous localization, but then a lot more beautiful than most of what is out there, with high ceilings and gold and sparkling accents everywhere you look. There are three offprint rooms, two of which shimmer with chandeliers that resemble pixelated flowers, and a one slope room off the bar. There ’ second besides an enormous screen and what looks like all the AV equipment you could possibly need for any consequence from legal profession mitzvah to wedding banquet .
photograph by Jennifer Zyman
photograph by Jennifer Zyman Royal China serves all the classic dim sum dishes such as har gow ( shrimp dumplings ), sticky rice, congee, clam in black bean sauce, and chicken feet. If you get there early, the carts come much and hot. It doesn ’ t seem besides unmanageable to accommodate a group, and larger parties make it easier to order a image of authoritative yue dishes—dry-fried gripe chow fun, salt and pepper squid, lobster stir-fried with leek and ginger, and chow mein with vegetables and soy sauce—from the encyclopedia-like menu. The Peking dip is a show-stopper ; a waiter brings the duck on a wheeling haul and carves it, leaving nothing but the crisp clamber. Soft, pillowy buns are served alongside hoisin sauce, shaved park onions, and batons of cucumber intend to lighten the fullness of your sandwich .
photograph by Jennifer Zyman
Fillings are flavorful and abundant in dumplings like the har gow, where chop chunks of shrimp about burst out of the rice paper wrapping, which is sometimes over-steamed. Most of my front-runner things are fried. Think golden prawn spring rolls or a “ ice lolly ” of breaded runt spread formed around a shortstop stick of sugarcane. Both are particularly beneficial when swiped through a little smasher of loss chili and soy sauce sauce. Between the extraordinary interior decoration, the abundance of dishes, and the slurred menu with helpful pictures for the uninitiate, Royal China is a gem. It makes the drive from Atlanta to Duluth deserving it—so worth it, in fact, that I returned three weekends in a course, each time bringing more people with me. And if the waits—they can reach upwards to an hour on the weekends if you arrive during prime time—are any indication, it ’ randomness already a success. If the wait is excessively long, you can constantly pop over to the Costco adjacent door and knock out some errands. 3960 Venture Drive, Duluth, 770-216-9933
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